Offbeat Travel Blog

The sky is its usual vibrant blue — it’s so easy to become spoiled by good weather — the sun is brightly shining and the air is sweet and mild. I know it won’t last. Winter will eventually cool the air temperatures to below freezing at night, but as long as the sun shines, even winter days will beckon us to enjoy the outdoors.

Friday night was Fractal Friday at the Planetarium at the New Mexico Museum of Natural History & Science. I’m told it’s the only full screen fractal show in the country. This live show was by turns mesmerizing and educational. Take the full immersive power of a planetarium and meld it with swirling colorful patterns and evocative music. Entrancing.

Fractals are “infinitely complex patterns that are self-similar across different scales,” says the Fractal Foundation. “They are created by repeating a simple process over and over in an ongoing feedback loop.” The fascinating result of mathematical formulas, they also appear in nature, although in less colorful but nonetheless fascinating infinity.

In this live show, Jonathan Wolfe, Ph.D. shares his excitement and his lush fractal art animations. Feel the power as you dive deeper and deeper and deeper into the patterns. This popular show sells out regularly. Tickets need to be purchased in advance.

Saturday brought my favorite art show in New Mexico — the Weems Artfest. I love the Weems gallery in Old Town. Southwest art is, in my opinion, some of the finest in the country. And the yearly Artfest bring together these artists and others of incredible creativity. Although you can certainly spend thousands of dollars, there’s also signed prints for $20 to $40. Pottery, art glass, leather, beads, collage, jewelry, outdoor art, the range is staggering.

On this trip I was entranced by the musical boxes of Michael and Joah Thiele of Hardwood Music. If I had $6,800 I would have scooped up a coffee table that played like a xylophone. Forget colored metal strips, these were designs in wood. Smaller boxes were available as well. If jewelry is wearable art, these are musical art.

Infinity Art Glass featured handblown glassworks with a sign — Please Touch. And it was a treat to gently stroke the sinuous sensuous art.

I stopped by one of my favorite potters — Alan Yarmark of Always Azul Pottery. He didn’t have my greatly loved blue bowls there but I have his card and will get another set of 6.

Patricia Wyatt of Santa Fe was selling her colorful paintings, on watercolor paper, embossed paper and stretched canvas in watercolor, colored pencil and oil pastel. The originals were over $1,000 but there were also hand-colored prints for $30. I bought one of those and will frame it over the next few weeks.

Pati Deuter’s embossed paper and ink creations were a great deal at $18, and $25. And I watched Amado Peña, an artisan of the Pascua Yaqui Tribe of Arizona, at work, and then bought 3 signed note cards at $5 each. They’ll be framed as well in the coming weeks.

This once-a-year event should be on everyone’s calendar. Come to Albuquerque in early November, enjoy the weather, and do your art holiday shopping.

I needed my chile fix, so we finished Saturday off with dinner at Papa Felipe’s for delicious Mexican/New Mexican dishes with reasonable prices. I had the Green Tamale Pie and Ed had a plate with two marinated beef Fiesta tacos, finished off with sopaipillas (each dish under $10).

Today we plan to hike a bit into the mountains, then do some shopping and pick up the ingredients for Shepherd’s Pie for dinner. Ed has been hankering for it and we enjoy cooking together. Perhaps we’ll enjoy a glass of wine in front of the fire. If we didn’t feel like cooking, there are certainly lovely restaurants with fireplaces to enjoy a meal and a drink.

Life is good in New Mexico. There’s a reason we call it the Land of Enchantment.

Read more about New Mexico at Offbeat Travel and Offbeat New Mexico

I was a bit glib yesterday when I wrote the note about traveling to Cuba — although serious about the topic. I needed time to compose a note I’ve been needing and wanting to write.

As someone who travels internationally, I have found that the Bush administration has been a constant embarrassment. Most people I’ve met have been more bewildered than angry at the USA. I have experienced no hostility but clearly the world didn’t understand how the country could have elected a person who would pursue such wrong-headed policies.

In January in Cairo I had this conversation:
“I don’t understand America,” said an Egyptian travel professional. “How could you have elected Bush?”

“You can’t blame this on me. I didn’t vote for him.” I gave my standard reply. “But don’t judge the people of the USA by his actions. America is a wonderful country.”

He paused thoughtfully. “Yes, I have friends in USA, and they say the same thing. Americans are good people.”

We both paused as we considered how a country of good people could elect W.

I’ve taken to explaining the population doesn’t vote for the best qualified person, but for the person they’d like to have as a drinking buddy, or a neighbor, or just a “regular guy/gal.”

You have to admit, that’s a really strange way to select the leader of one of the most powerful and influential countries in the world. It’s nice to have elected a president on the basis of vision and competence rather than the guy next door.

The other thing that has become obvious is that the world doesn’t understand us. They think we’re only about money and power.

Our embrace of diversity has always been our strongest asset. No, we don’t do it all the time, and sometimes we have to be led rather reluctantly to it, but look around the USA and you’ll see just about every country, race, and ethnic group in the world represented.

There is no monolithic USA. We are fragmented into tiny enclaves across the country. There are places I don’t feel comfortable as a person of Jewish heritage. I know there are places my peers who are black don’t feel comfortable as well. And while talking to a man of Hispanic heritage about Texas, I discovered the Texas I visited was very different from the Texas he experienced.

But in the end, the world found out what we knew all along. We value democracy and diversity. Even when we disagree we respect and value the right to vote. For all our squabbles, we work hard to make our country work.

Read about travel around the world at OffbeatTravel

For years my fellow travel writers from all over the world could and did visit Cuba. Even people in the USA would circumvent the rules by flying out of Canada or Jamaica. That was until the Bush presidency — when the crackdown became so severe that it was too risky.

I’ve waited, none too patiently, for the USA government’s position on travel to Cuba to become less hysterical and more reasonable.

I know President-elect Obama has many more important issues to face, given 8 years of Bush destruction of the country. But I’d really like to visit Cuba. So, perhaps on the agenda of things to fix we could just add “Let travelers from the USA visit Cuba.”

I’m ready to go.

Read about travel around the world at OffbeatTravel

I’ve never been much of a shopper but over the years of traveling I’ve come to appreciate that there are clothes that are perfect for travel, and those which really should remain at home.

Until that revelation, I would just pack up my normal clothes and then look at a suitcase filled with wrinkled jackets, inappropriate pants, and a mixture of items that never really made an outfit. I was, however (and still am) devoted to my jeans.

Some of the things I’ve discovered include:
My pants don’t fit after three days of good eating.

My jackets are either too bulky to fit in a suitcase, or they are not wrinkle resistant. Or both.

I get rained on while out of town and hate to use an umbrella. I carry one in my suitcase, but I never take it out to use.

Lighter suitcases on wheels are much easier when I have to drag them around. And the way to make them lighter — pack much less.

Black is my favorite travel color. And polyester with a hint of spandex is my favorite fabric.

The result was a section of my closet devoted to my “press trip” wardrobe. I’ve also found a few retailers and manufacturers that produce great clothes for the road.

In OffbeatTravel’s Travel Clothes you can read about what I’ve finally learned. What I take with me, how I select these clothes, and some reviews of brands that work for travelers.

I hope you find it helpful.

As I look back on the trip, one of the aspects that amazed me (besides the beauty of the country and the diversity of experiences) is how well and smoothly things ran.

180 journalists, 4 or 5 buses and a daunting itinerary plus pick ups at the airport at totally different times and departures from three different hotels at different times.

So, I waited outside my hotel the last morning with a bit of trepidation — I was one of the last to leave and no one else was scheduled to go to the airport at 7:50 AM.

But consistent with the excellent organization I saw throughout the country, at exactly 7:50 AM the driver showed up at my hotel (the very well situated Park Hotel with lovely rooms and fabulous views) and 40 minutes later I was at the LJU airport bidding goodbye to a very special country.

Highlights: The wine really is excellent. So good that I’ve shoehorned a bottle into my luggage. The food everywhere was delicious. I wouldn’t hesitate to walk into a restaurant anywhere in the country and order a meal, with wine.

Speaking of wine — I’d also definitely do the wine trail — and yes, there is a wine trail.

Sights: The cave system, the towns of Piran, Stanjel, Bled, and of course, Ljubljana were standouts.

Although I don’t raft etc. there are all kinds of outdoor activities.

Gamblers take note: casinos are not uncommon and seem to be in all major cities, however, unlike casinos in the USA, you need documentation (like a passport) in order to be registered and even walk through the door.

WC means Water Closet and is indicative of bathrooms. BTW, they aren’t called bathrooms, they are called toilets or toilettes — don’t bother with the American euphemism.

Adria airlines, the official airlines of Slovenia serves food on all their flights — even a 40 minute trip brings a snack box.

English is widely spoken, as is German and Italian.

Hvala means thank-you.

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And to everyone who has followed the Slovenian trip - Hvala

It sits on the edge of a clear glacial lake surrounded by mountains. The trees are turning colors and it seems to be a magical time. There’s a castle up on the hill, and another on the island — the only one is Slovenia — that’s rises out of the water.

I’m in the courtyard of Bled Castle (the castle on the hill) feeling the medieval atmosphere. We’re drinking a sparkling wine that reminds me strongly of Italian Asti and eating a special Slovenia cake called potitza (which I’m spelling phonetically rather than correctly). It’s a lovely yellow cake rolled around a filling of ground nuts, or perhaps a bit of savory, or dried grapes. Dusted with confectioners sugar, it’s a light treat.

As we eat and drink, I’m watching fire, eaters, sword play, and medieval dances.

The mountains surround us, the sun warms us, and the setting is perfect.

I’m not sure about the performance, but I’m quite certain the cake and wine is for the journalists. I watch some of the visitors puzzle over this and try to decide is they can partake and enjoy the refreshments.

Then I go off to explore the castle in search of photos.

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Today’s adventures included a visit to the Lipica Stud farm where the famous stallions are bred. We saw the dressage and it strongly reminded me of dancing. Dancing horses. But they were beautiful and with soulful eyes.

Next it was the Karst village of Stanjel. Dating back to Roman times, Stanjel looks and feels ancient, but cheerfully so with flowers in boxes and windows.

Although the guide books are filled with walks and galleries, and sights, I can’t tell you where I was, but I loved wandering the stone streets and seeing the ancient buildings. The view from the top of the mountain, where the historic town was built, is gorgeous.

And from an ancient town, to a modern one with gaming and deluxe rooms — history by day, comforts by night.

Tomorrow, more adventures await.

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Destinations don’t bring travel journalists in without strings (which is why some publications do not allow articles based on sponsored trips — but that’s a whole ‘nother post). It is expected that the writer will produce an article or some piece of media about the destination (hotel, resort, etc.).

The writing of the article is never a problem for me. I only go to places I want to write about, and I always find something fascinating, fun, or offbeat.

But sponsors of trips also want the writers to experience, or at least see, their property — generally a hotel. However, it’s not always a hotel in which we are staying. I’ve sat through presentations about spas in hotels and never experienced a moment of the spa service or the hotel. I don’t write about these places. How can I? I’ve had lunch in hotel restaurants which is at least something I can mention. Provided the food was good. Generally, it is excellent. But sometimes, it’s been quite dreadful. In those cases, I do the restaurant a kindness and pretend the meal never happened.

Today, apparently, was be nice to sponsors day. We spent most of the day on the bus going back and forth to see properties. It came with food of some sort, and excellent Slovenian wine. So, it wasn’t a hardship.  But at the end of the day, I had seen almost nothing of the country — other than what could be gleaned through the window of a bus.

The high points were a truly neat hotel — a rebuilt castle turned into luxury. The place looks gorgeous and wonderfully offbeat. It’s the Otocec Castle Hotel, located on a river in Novo Mesto. It’s on my list of most romantic places to visit. Unfortunately we couldn’t stay there, but it was one of those excellent Slovenian wine stops, this time served with roasted chestnuts. Haven’t had those in ages and it was a treat. Mostly what I learned is that I want to go back and stay at the hotel.

The other highlight was the glimpse of the town of Piran. This ancient town has the feel of Venice, complete with river entry into the harbor. Since I have extraordinary memories of cruising into Venice on a tiny riverboat, Piran excited me with possibilities.

We marched off the boat, and into a tiny restored theater where we were charmed by dances and gymnastic performances by people of the town. We then marched back to the boat and waved goodbye without ever seeing anything of the town.

I do have some lovely photos.

The town of Izola also seems lovely. We had excellent Slovenian wine (picking up a pattern?) and delicious appetizers on the dock. A folk dancing group performed traditional dances. But we got off the bus, walked to the dock, and after the wine, food, and dances, got on a boat (that would be the boat that took us to Piran, and then Portoroz).

Similarly, I’m spending the night in Portoroz — looks like an interesting resort town with deluxe hotels. Perhaps I’ll get to see a bit before we leave tomorrow morning.

I saw the inside of several hotels today and have ended up somewhat cranky. But tomorrow seems to be a better day. Fewer drive-bys and more experiences.

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It’s early Saturday morning and the carillon bells are ringing madly. The people are returning home from the market and the cafes are setting up for the day’s activity.

It’s overcast and cool but I see heaters outside by all the cafes to keep diners and drinkers warm. It’s just too beautiful a city to sit indoors when there’s cobblestone walks and river views.

The market is a photographer’s dream, and an important destination, especially if you’re hungry. Breads, cured meats, cheese, fruit, flowers, and baskets. The baskets are not only for tourists, in fact the locals buy and use them to carry home their purchases. Lovely, but not airplane-friendly.

This is a locals market with few, or actually no signs in English.

The smells or roasting chestnuts, baking breads, even saurkraut heat up my appetite.

I wander further along the meandering streets finding a lace store, and following the smell of something sweet being roasted. I track the aroma and 1.77 Euro later I have 50 grams of sweet roasted almonds. I savor them as I continue to explore.

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This is a magical city at night. And probably during the day as well. But that will wait for tomorrow.

Tonight we walked from the Grand Hotel Union to the City Museum. Ljubljana, I’m told, means Beloved, and this is certainly a city to love. It looks like Venice as we walked over one of the small stone bridges and Amsterdam as we strolled by the banks of the river. And its own place of enchantment as we walked through plazas and sidewalk cafes.

It has a warmth and welcoming atmosphere with stone streets, and ornate historic buildings. Music greets us from street performers as we stroll along the water. The smell of roasting chestnuts beckons.

The word is “boutique destination” — it’s not yet a mass-produced tourist experience. As of this writing, it is the genuine city, with no chain stores, no tourism gimmicks. It’s just Slovenia, and that is well worth a visit.

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